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Gift of Life

Flowing 370 km. through Thailand’s heart, the Chao Phraya River is more than the nation’s lifeline, it is a metaphor for the country itself. Just as the river is a melding of the waters and sediments it passes, Thailand blends ethnicities and cultural antecedents into a rich amalgam whose individual elements are inextricable from the whole.

This gift of life nourishing the people along—and far beyond—its banks is apparent to anyone who journeys along the river. The Chao Phraya has made the two regions through which it and its tributaries traverse, Thailand’s richest. It feeds thousands of miles of irrigation canals that coarse on either side of it. Fly high above it and note the delicate silvery tracery laid over its broad valley. Meandering in myriad directions, half of the ancillary canals that comprise this great river system are natural. The other half are gridded, testimony to Thais recognition of their vital importance and willingness to spend back-breaking centuries patiently digging thousands of kilometers of waterways to bring the river to their doors and fields.

Descend to a boat gliding along the river’s surface. On either side one can see how the river provides daily sustenance, from fishermen casting wide nets, to lush paddies that provide the second staple of the Thai diet: rice.

Before airplanes, cars, and trains, the river was the roadstead carrying traders and travelers from the sea to Chiang Mai and other northern cities. It and the canals were lanes that led small wooden boats deep into the interior. Until the 20th century, boats traversing dozens of hand-dug canals moved residents from one part of Bangkok to another. Their progress replicated those of the waterborne citizens of Ayutthaya, the previous royal capital, as well as millions of farmers who, even today, quietly paddle produce-laden boats through the countryside.

Until the last century, most Thais lived in floating or stilted homes that rose or stood above the annual floodwaters, remaining dry when land-based homes were inundated. Outside the walls of Bangkok’s Grand Palace, they lay six deep from the river’s shore, a second city of homes, shops, and entertainment venues. A journey along the river today takes one past thousands of similar homes perched just above the highwater mark established by the oceanic tide that reverses the river’s direction twice each day.

The logs from which the houses were built were floated downriver from northern forests; the sawmills that sliced them into planks still dot the shores above Bangkok. Even today the river serves construction. Scan the cityscape and note that nearly all of the buildings one sees originated in the riverbed, their sturdy structures combing cement with sand dredged from the river north of the capital.

The Chao Phraya officially begins at Nakhon Sawan, at the melding of four rivers—the Ping, Wang, Yom, and Nan—that drain the northern highlands. From Nakhon Sawan to the sea, the river wanders back and forth across Thailand’s ricebowl as it flows past three old royal capital cities—Ayutthaya (1351-1767), Thonburi (1767-1782) and Bangkok (1782 to the present) before being strained by mangroves as it debouches into the Gulf of Thailand.

When travelers flow along it, they trace Thailand’s history. Kings of the three capitals channeled its waters around their crenellated walls as protective moats. Bangkok’s first monarch, Rama I, moved the capital from low-lying Thonburi, to the river’s eastern bank to establish a watery barrier between his palace and traditional enemies to the west.

Thailand’s genius for transforming water for human endeavor is evident in river engineering. Seven khlong lat (shortcut channels) laboriously dug across the oxbows of the meandering the river reduced the distance between Ayutthaya and the sea by 62 km. One observes two of the most notable from the gunwales of a boat: at Koh Kret north of Bangkok, and Bangkok itself; the two-km. section between Khlong Bangkok Noi opposite Thammasat University and Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, was once dry land.

In ones progression from north to south, one also traces Thailand’s economic development, from the slash-and-burn hill agriculture of the hilltribes, through verdant rice fields, and on to industrial Bangkok. It also reveals the essential ethnic and religious harmony of the Thais; both banks are lined by Buddhist wat, mosques, and Christian churches. Wat face the river because Buddha meditated on a riverbank to reach enlightenment.

Like the river, Thailand has embraced all who ventured into it. Diverse people have traveled the river and left their marks. On a downstream journey, the voyager can discover his/her historic roots. Communities of Mon, Lao, Khmer, Vietnamese, and Burmese lie along it.

Because the Chao Phraya’s mouth was once the kingdom’s gateway to the world, the river became the highway for overseas traders who brought foreign goods and sent Thailand’s products to the world. Along the banks are numerous towns, monuments, and cemeteries built by French, Japanese, Portuguese, British, Chinese, Dutch traders. Those ships which brought cargoes on the cusp of the monsoon, spent the four-month rainy season moored below Ayutthaya awaiting favorable winds for their homeward journeys. Lured by the delights of Siam, many sailors remained behind, and were eventually assimilated into the Thai polity.

The degree of this all-embracing that diversity can be seen in the many riverside mosques. French engineers engaged by King Narai in 1680 to build dozens of riverbank fortresses to bar invaders were actually North African mercenaries. In addition to their construction skills, they brought their religion, intermarrying with the Thais and converting them to their faith.

The river is also the centerpiece of Thailand’s culture, and the stage for its most important festivals and rituals. At Loy Krathong, small, candle-laden boats are floated on the rivers and canals on the November full moon night, to carry away bad luck and clear the slate for a new year. The river is a favored venue for Songkran, Thailand’s second key celebration. For several days, Buddhists sprinkle water on each other as a benediction. Throughout the year, devout Buddhists liberate fish, turtles, and eels in the river to atone for past sins and to gain merit. Royal and lay rites of passage have been celebrated on the rivers.

Riverine longboat races mirror ancient battles in which warriors rowed to war. Their ultimate expression is the Royal Barge procession on the Chao Phraya which is performed every half-dozen years. While kings of other realms ride gilded chariots, Thai monarchs ride Royal Barges protected by a fleet of 51 barges. These are the remnants of a marine fleet that could speed troops to remote areas to face enemies slogging through bogs and marshes.

In its myriad dimensions, uses, and importance in Thai history, economy, and culture, the Chao Phraya is a reflection of the diverse cultural and ethnic influences that characterize the Thai people. When one steps onto the waters, he is stepping into the heart of Thailand, on a river which is both the lifeblood and the lifeline of the Thai nation.


© Copyright 2016 by Steve Van Beek
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